We are what we eat…

A great French gastronome by the name of Brillat Savarin was responsible for a tome Brillat Savarin called the “Physiologie du Gout” (The Physiology of Taste) and also responsible for the  odd aphorism that has stuck with me to this very day. Namely…

“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are!”

Well there has been much debate and much gnashing of the odd mandible in the past few months here in the UK over what has now become our latest food scandal. Namely the discovery of Horse-meat in assorted processed meals from Findus Lasagne to Ikea Meatballs.

I have been somewhat amused to see the comments made about how could we eat horse and when you sit down and think more about this it has been led a great deal in the publics desire for cheap convenience food. That Brillat Savarin aphorism has a real ring of truth about it when you put it into this context.

I love a bargain like anyone else but cheap does not always mean poor quality… a good chef will buy wisely and shop around for the right price or you buy something in season and abundance.

When it comes to horse the meat is much revered on the continent and I personally will not baulk at cooking or eating it. It is certainly better value than beef and can be as equally tasty.

So how we source our food is never more poignant at the moment so I thought it would be worthwhile highlighting the work of a gentleman known as Fergus Drennan. Not a edforager24common household name but in foodie circles this guy is well known as he is a professional forager. He is Kent based (Canterbury way) and he is keen to embark on a project that will not only test his skills to feed himself but also the effects of living off the land and his endeavours will have upon his health.

Fergus is currently trying to raise sufficient funds to support this project so as not to provide himself with monetary issues whilst conducting this experiment. This is a mammoth task but I was highly impressed how using the Internet is pivot-able in this whole project and more important the clever use of something I am now just a bit more aware of namely “Crowd Funding”

It is not till you delve a bit more deeply as to what the land can offer us in the way of food that you realise how abundant nature can be and there are things out there I was Wild Garlic Flowersnot even aware are edible. I have been looking forward so much over the past few weeks to the arrival of that perennial little green leaf called ransom or wild garlic. It is wild foods like this along with more unusual ingredients that make this a whole new ball game for a foodie.

The project Fergus is keen to embark upon is fascinating and his passion for living off the land is infectious. I am thinking of ways in which we can support Fergus and one thing I am keen to do is see if we can host a dinner featuring foraged ingredients with Fergus present to talk and inform us all about them. So watch this space. In the meantime if you feel you want to know more about Fergus and his chosen lifestyle he has sent me the following links… the important one for supporting his crowd funding efforts is the final one!

Website: http://www.wildmanwildfood.co.uk/index.html

Blog: http://wildmanwildfood.blogspot.co.uk/

Twitter: https://twitter.com/fergustheforage (he is still to work out how to use this yet)

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/fergus.drennan

Crowdfund: http://www.indiegogo.com/one-year-total-wild-food

Your comments are welcomed….

Spilling the Beans on “Eat like a King”… well almost

 

Well it was a chilly Saturday afternoon as along with my covert colleague we wound our way around some Kent countryside lanes to fulfil our calling as “guest” chefs to none other than double Gold medal winner Dame Kelly Holmes.

About a year ago Dame Kelly had made her bid for an item we had put up for auction at the Hospice in the Weald Torchlight Dinner held at Hever Castle. We were to cook and serve a four course dinner to Kelly and her guests in the comfort of her own home. Titled Eat Like a King… well almost

So my partner in crime who we will call “Greg” works in a high profile Private household and had arrived earlier that day to Hari HQ to help with preparations. We were to cook a special menu that had been agreed via Kelly’s office and we had to get prepared before we set up in Kelly’s kitchen.

So having beavered away all morning, filleting fish, chopping vegetables and putting together what is more commonly termed mise-en-place we were packed and ready to roll by just after 4pm.

We arrived just before our agreed time of 5pm to be warmly greeted at Kelly’s home. Alpaca’s in an adjacent field got Greg all excited as he has extensively travelled in that part of the world these animals come from. We unloaded the car and set ourselves up in what was a very impressive kitchen. This looked like it was going to be fun!

We set to getting things ready, namely making Beer Bread and then baking off the cheese palmiers pastry nibbles – it is always a challenge working in a strange kitchen trying to get to grip with the ovens and such like… we were spoilt for choice with an Aga, two ovens and steamer so just needed to work out how to turn them on!

Kelly returned home and after introductions we settled into a relaxed pace. She set off to light her wood burning stove in the hallway. About 20 minutes later as a light fug descended the hallway alarms were blaring… we thought we had burnt something but as Kelly later tweeted  “Looking forward to a posh meal being cooked @ my place by @MrHariCovert Embarrassing that I set the fire alarm off with my fire though.”

So what did we serve Kelly and her 5 guests. Well as they congregated in the lounge we served up a platter of mini toasts topped with chopped mushrooms mixed with wild mushrooms and bowls of crispy cheese palmiers

As they all sat down the first course we served was a little extra one called “Tasette Lady Mariniere”. A delicate soup of prawns infused with Pernod and saffron flavour, then thickened with what is termed an egg yolk liaison (egg yolk and cream) at the last minute.

So as the ladies devoured this with relish along with the freshly made Moodley’s Beer Bread Greg and I plated up their starter… we had decided on a version of a Ceviche as Greg had recently been to Peru but mindful of the publics aversion to raw fish we had decided to make it with smoked haddock. Little cubes of the fish were marinated for about two hours in fresh lime juice along with finely chopped shallots, diced chilli and we also added some freshly chopped dill. We arranged the fish on the plates and alongside this we served a bed of fresh pea shoots and a salad of grated celeriac and apple remoulade. It all looked delicate and tasty with zingy freshness. It was equally devoured with plates wiped clean!

Main course was fish again… I had been informed the Kelly was not a big red meat eater so we had decided to stick with fish. This time we served up a selection of fish, a fillet of fresh Sea Bass, a chunk of Salmon, a King Scallop and some freshly poached mussels were arranged on a bed of finely sliced fennel, samphire (seaweed) and carrot and with a dash of white wine we encased the fish in a paper bag and then when placed in a hot oven the steam within cooked the fish. Much frivolity was had as we served the bags to guests as we joked the bags were not edible just the contents. A butter sauce boiled new potatoes and a salad of green beans with cobnuts and cob nut oil were served alongside.

The noise levels deadened as they all tucked in and then rose as they sat back and gossiped as they do! Greg and I were busy ensuring the kitchen was kept tidy and we prepared the next course. We felt an indulgent Lemon Posset would go down well, this old English dessert would be a winner and we served ours in a glass with a mound of fresh raspberries and some freshly baked warm butter shortbread biscuits.

Kelly had like any good host got her best stuff out and well the cutlery was something of beauty and very apt “bling”. Polished Sheffield Steel with monogrammed hilts (double medals incorporated into 2004 and KH) that had apparently been given to her by the Mayor of Sheffield. We stood the teaspoons into the glasses and it set the dish off perfectly!

We had expected the ladies to perhaps have struggled at this stage but again they devoured with relish and clean glasses returned to the kitchen.

Finally we served some local cheeses, I had made a visit up to Winterdale Shaw on the top of Wrotham Hill for their Cheddar cheese. I also was keen to use some Stichleton as well but a rogue batch of this unpasteurised Stilton style cheese meant they only had the Colston Basset Stilton so we took that. Along with a hunk of Smoked Winterdale Shaw we had our cheese boards and with some home-made Banana Jam and the Porridge Oat biscuits completed the picture.

By this time the ladies were well and truly struggling and the extra shortbread biscuits we served up with the coffee were packaged up to take home along with the selection of Damian Allsop water ganache chocolates. I had spent the day with Damian at a food festival up in the Cotswolds and heard more of his story (something for a later post) and a box of his chefs collection was stored away in Kelly’s larder for later consumption!

We loaded up the car and then sneaked a few last minute photos with Kelly and her guests. It had been a great night and total pleasure to cook for some wonderfully appreciative guests. Meeting and cooking for Kelly had been a real pleasure and as Kelly then quizzed Greg as to what was next, she fished for more info but we deftly fielded the questions as his “Non Disclosure Agreements” could not be breached but we felt they had got the gist they had eaten like Kings… well almost.

Shh… Covert Cookery lessons – it’s fun with fish now…

Well next in our series of covert cookery lessons we thought we would do something with a product oft maligned and feared by the cook.

We thought the use of fish would whet the appetite and would also give you budding chefs chance to hone some more of those knife skills with the following planned itinerary

09:30 am – Arrival and greeting with coffee/tea & biscuits

The following Lunch Menu served at circa 12:30pm will be

Tassette “Lady Mariniere”

- a small cup of a delicate prawn, saffron & Pernod soup

● ● ●

Fillets of fish “en papillote”

- the prepared fillets of fish steamed in a paper bag served

with a classic butter sauce.

New Potatoes

● ● ●

Apple Tart Tatin

- classic upside down glazed apple tarts served with a dollop of creme fraiche

● ● ●

The lesson will include the following:-

●  Filleting the fish – how to fillet both a flat & round fish

●  Making a simple fish stock

●  Chopping vegetables for the soup and making the soup

●  Making a tart tatin.

There are 2 spaces per lesson and so it will be very much “hands on” one to one tuition and could ideally suit a novice or nervous cook as well as those more competent looking to hone their skills. (Please advise your level on the booking form so we can balance the classes)

Recipe Sheets and Hari Covert Apron will be included to take away at the end of the day.

Suggested Donation per person £75 including the lunch – please bring your own wine if you so wish. Water provided.

Proposed Dates are as follows 12th, 13th, 26th or 27th February 2013

To Book your places then please complete the following form.

We will contact you within 24-48 hours to confirm your place with a credit card number.

Going Going Gone…

We thought you might like to know about something a little bit different… We get asked to donate meals and places at our dinners all the time and we do our bit for charity when we can!
BSlogoWe were asked by the Bacchus Society to help support a fundraising initiative they were running called the “12 Days of Christmas Silent Auction” to help them raise much needed funds to support their student prizes and mentoring scheme they run at the Oxford School of Hospitality Management at Oxford Brookes University my old “alma mater”

So in a weak and vulnerable moment I have donated one of my “Hari @ Home” events where I will take my pop up to someone in their own home and cook a sumptuous meal for 6 people in the comfort of their own surroundings. If you should fancy such a meal then why not make a bid via their web site here and you could have yours truly knocking on your front door with my pots and pans to cook your dinner!

Please note I will supply all the food, do all the cooking,washing up etc but the falling down liquid refreshment is all down to you but I will help with some recommendations!

Please also feel free to spread the word about this event as you only have till midnight today (December 7th) to make your bid (yes just the one bid!) so make sure you make it count…

Thanks

Hari Covert

PS We still have some places left for our It’s Christmas Ho Ho Ho Dinner… check out menu and booking form here

It’s Christmas….hohoho

For our Christmas themed menu I know many will be surprised to see I am going to provide some classic dishes… We will kick the evenings off with some seasonal and festive nibbles that will set the tone… we will then for our starter serve a classic prawn cocktail… we will be using some freshly poached prawns with our own home-made “Marie rose” sauce that will nestle atop classic shredded iceberg lettuce. A real retro start to festivities…

Next a thin turkey escalope will be wrapped in pancetta and stuffed with a sage,chestnut & forcemeat rolled and roasted but served atop a mix of roasted winter vegetables and a port redcurrant jus to finish it all off.

We will then serve a selection of seasonal cheeses with our porridge oat biscuits before completing the meal with a decadent chocolate torte that will be served with a red berry compote and a shot glass of Tia Maria that very retro coffee flavoured liqueur a great way to finish off our Christmas celebrations!!!

If you want to take part then please complete the booking form below and we will contact you normally within 24 hours to take a credit card number to confirm your places.

Cheers

Hari Covert

covert by name, covert by nature

Friday 14th December & Saturday 15th December 2012

Arrival 7:30pm     Dinner Served 8:00pm

Welcome Drink & Seasonal Nibbles

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Classic Prawn Cocktail

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Turkey Escalope with Sage & Chesnut Stuffing served with roasted Winter vegetables & Port Redcurrant Jus

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Hari’s Cheese Selection – Porridge Oat Biscuits

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Decadent Chocolate Torte with Red Fruit Compote

Shot Glass of Tia Maria

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Coffee & Petit Fours

In Vino Veritas… our November event

We are pushing new boundaries for our November dinner when we will be serving a five course meal to diners with a breath taking selection of specially selected wines matched to the food.

The wines are being chosen and provided by Tim Fletcher of Rodney Fletcher Vintners and Tim will be on hand each evening to talk about them and answer any questions you may have about them.

We are also serving not one but two wines with each course as we thought it would be interesting to compare the selected wines and also see which guests prefer with the dish.

The menu has also been designed to showcase some great local produce and also some different culinary styles to match the wines.

Friday November 23rd & Saturday November 24th - 7:30pm dinner 8:00pm prompt

FULLY BOOKED BOTH NIGHTS… waiting list only

NB: Menu and Wines subject to alteration and market purchases.

Welcome Drink and Assorted Nibbles

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 Green Bean, Cob Nut & Pastrami Salad

Altano Douro Branco 2010/11 – Symington Estates Portugal

Cousino Macul Sauvignon Gris 2010/11 MaipoValley Chile

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Double Cooked Cheddar Cheese & Smoked Haddock Soufflé

Pinot Gris Prestige 2009/10 Michel Wust Cave de Cleebourg – Alsace

Bolfan Primus Reisling 2008/10 – Croatia

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  Spicy Lamb Tagine with Vegetable Cous Cous

Domaine des Tourelles 2008/9 – BekaaValley – Lebanon

Chateau Rossenovo Mavrud 2009 – Southern Black Sea, Bulgaria

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Apple & Pine Nut Torte with Vanilla Ice Cream

Chateau Kefraya Lacrima D’Oro Lebanon 1993 – Bekaa ValleyLebanon

Chateau Ma Passion 2008 Bernard Dornic, Monbazillac – France

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Winterdale Shaw & Stichleton Cheese, Hari’s Porridge Oat Biscuits

The sweet and red Lebanese wine will be on hand to go with the cheeses

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Coffee & Petit Fours

Suggested donation £50 per person – Service not included

Bookings will be on a first come first served basis and we will be seating guests on two tables of six so a total of 12 guests each evening. This means guests will be sharing.

Bookings are now open please book early to ensure you reserve your places.

To make a booking please complete the booking form below. We will contact you normally within 24 hours to take a credit card number to confirm and secure the booking.

Chinese Memories – a review

Well we have now completed the return visit of Chef But with his second visit with again two highly enjoyable nights… These nights take some planning and organisation as it is quite an involved feat to cook a banquet of some ten dishes in a domestic kitchen…

I have known Chef But for over thirty years and we have cooked many a dinner and done many a promotional event together. We have taken Chinese food to the Scilly Isles, East Anglia, Hampshire and other parts near and far. He has always been a pleasure to cook with as he is such a professional and as equally enthusiastic about food as I am!

We used to often meet for a Sunday Dim Sum lunch following a bout of tennis in the morning and follow that lunch with a slap up tea at a 5 star hotel… oh the days before marriage and family commitments!

I dashed down the motorway on Thursday morning to pick B and his wife Sue up from East Croydon station followed by a quick trip up to Wing Yip “the big” Chinese supermarket. It is a veritable emporium of all things Asian and the source of much that we needed so following a quick bite to eat in the restaurant next door we loaded up the car and headed back to HQ to start preparing.

It’s always fascinating to see how much hard work goes into the events we do and this one was no exception, we worked solidly until early evening prepping the meats and the smells emanating from the kitchen wafted throughout my home.

It was also slightly stressful as B announced the little bottle of “Lye Water” he had brought with him had been damaged in transit and he was in dire need of more! Well firstly trying to understand what Lye Water was or is, meant a Google search to discover it is a caustic soda and water mix used in soap making and in some cases for pastry. Hence the need for Chef But and his impending noodle demo!

A quick request via twitter revealed a place nearby in Tunbridge Wells should stock it but a phone call revealed it was not availible and the person on the phone went on to tell me it is something now illegal… this was news to chef But as he has been using it for over 30 years in his noodle making process and still able to purchase from other chinese emporia.

Another fellow tweeter kindly posted a little (you tube) video on how we could make our own and in fairness if we had time and a large plastic oil drum knocking about we might have considwered it! Anyway chef But soldiered on and duly managed without and we continued to prepare the banquet menu.

So onto the dinners… we always find the first night harder than the second – I guess it is to be expected… first night nerves and doing dinners back to back we have an easier task on night two as some prep work is already done. These dinners were no different and we had a full house both nights. A two of no shows on the second night was somewhat annoying as we had turned others away and we pride ourselves in ensuring all those attending will turn up so this was a first and all rather annoying!!!!

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So what about the food well I am going to say it all went down rather well with some lovely comments and I will direct you to the following blog written by one of our guests who was in attendance on the Friday night. Check out Laura’s comments and lovely pictures here

We rounded each evening off with the noodle demo and if you have never seen it then just check out this little video from last years dinners. Chef But has hardly aged!!!

The following comments from our guestbook say it all…

“What a marvellous experience, every course hit the spot and Mr But’s noodles perfectly formed!. Great Evening…” Claire & Graeme

“I did not like “Chinese” until tonight”Mark

“Lovely evening… food was amazing and & atmosphere great… our 4th visit so expect nothing less! Thanks Hari”Emma & Nathan

“We thoroughly enjoyed watching you get your noodles in a twist!!! Seriously what an excellent evening ! Fabulous flavours that came through each individual dish, an absolute delight – Thank You”Russell & Ruth

The last comment means much to us as these guests travelled all the way from Chelmsford in Essex braving the M25 and the Dartford crossing on a Friday evening… that is what we call dedication to the cause!

Chef But has also left me three signed copies of his Memories of China Cookbook so if you are interested in purchasing a copy then please let me know via the following form. The cost of the book will be £10 plus P&P (£3 profit on the book will be donated to charity!)

Signed Book…

Cheers

Hari C

More Chinese Memories…the menu

Well we promised it would be another fun night and those already booked are in for a treat… When Mr But cooked for two nights last year in August we had such positive comments and some still even talk about it to me.

Well Mr But has kindly agreed to come back again. We will be hosting two nights on the 14th & 15th September. The menu does have some repeated dishes from last year only because they are classics and signature dishes of Chef But’s

Please note the menu will be subject to market purchases and ingredient availabilities. Suggested Donation £55.00 per person. Bring your Own wines/drinks

Arrival 7:30pm – Welcome drink and assorted Chinese nibbles

Dinner 8:00pm Prompt – please note to maximise space there will be two tables (8 and 6) so guests will be sharing

Starters
Bang Bang Chicken Salad
Potsticker Dumplings 
Sesame Prawn Toasts
美味 
Soup
Crab & Sweetcorn Soup
美味
Intermediate Course 
Crispy Mongolian Lamb with lettuce puffs
美味
Main Courses 
Sliced Fish fillets with Chef But’s special sauce
Braised Brisket of Beef with Dried Bean Curd & Water Chestnuts
Double Cooked Szechwan Pork Belly
 Stir Fried Chicken in Black Bean Sauce
Stir Fried Chinese Vegetables
Steamed Rice
美味
Hari’s Dessert
Homemade Lychee and Ginger Sorbet
美味
Chinese Tea
We will be serving these dishes to guests on serving platters and we will also give guidance on the use of chopsticks to those less accomplished.
At the end of the meal guests will than be invited to watch a demonstration by Chef But in the art of Hand-made Noodles. This is a very skilled process and quite magical to observe and Chef But is a true master at it… just make sure you bring your cameras to capture it.
To reserve your places please go here

Chinese Memories… a return visit…

Well we are very excited to announce that chef Kam Po But will be returning for two nights again in September. – 14th & 15th to be precise.

©Alexander Whittle

We were delighted by the success of last years event (see the review here) we felt we had to try and host another couple of nights.

Mr But is a true master and along with his charming wife Sue we will be putting together another really sumptuous banquet meal. Mr But is currently working on this years menu.

We will start the evening off with welcome drink and nibbles then guests will be able to bring their own wine/drinks for the meal.

At the conclusion of the evening Mr But will then also demonstrate the magical process of making hand drawn noodles to the lucky guests – a skill in which he is a real master and much admired.

We are requesting a suggested donation of £55 per person for this very exclusive event. Please also note guests will be required to also share tables. (We will have two large tables)

If you wish to book your places for this very special event then please complete the following form: Please book early to ensure you get your required spaces.

The Tower Dinner… your last chance so be quick…

Well we are just a few hours away from the chance to take “Underground Dining” to new heights.

You have until just 12 Midnight on Saturday June 2nd  to make your online donations. Thereafter the only way to get your name in the “Virtual Hat” will be to make a direct donation at the Diamond Jubilee celebrations on Sunday June 3rd at the Yalding Lees.

This has been a mammoth task in terms of planning and permissions. In fact when I first approached the charity I am supporting in this endeavour over a year ago it was met with some scepticism as to if we could achieve it. We have had to jump through hoops and work hard to convince so many that the intentions to help raise the profile of this worthwhile charity and have a fun night in the process is all we are trying to do!

This will be a “once only” chance to dine on the roof of this charming village church. It will not happen again as I have possibly aged somewhat in this process!

We still need you to donate as the target is not yet in sight! So please go to my online donation page… please do donate what you can and your name will then be placed in that hat.

Thanks to all those who have already embraced the event. I know the YCPS are very grateful for your support and hope this has fired your imagination to continue support them in their future fundraising! I know we aim to, but just not on the church roof!

Cheers

Hari Covert
covert by name, covert by nature

P.S. Spaces still available for our Hot little Sizzler on June 16th – go to our Book Now page to reserve your place!